Jessica Pilz
- Competition climbing
- Sport climbing
- Bouldering
- Redpoint: 8c+ (5.14c)
- World Champion in 2018 (Lead)
- Won 6 international youth competitions in competition lead climbing
- Won 2 international youth competitions in competition bouldering
Women's competition climbing | ||||||||||||||||||
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Representing Austria | ||||||||||||||||||
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Olympic Games | ||||||||||||||||||
2024 Paris | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
World Championships | ||||||||||||||||||
2018 Innsbruck | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2021 Moscow | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
2023 Bern | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
2018 Innsbruck | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
World Cup (Overall) | ||||||||||||||||||
2023 | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2018 | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2015 | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2016 | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
2019 | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
European Championships | ||||||||||||||||||
2022 Munich | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2015 Chamonix | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2017 Campitello di Fassa | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2022 Munich | Combined | |||||||||||||||||
Winter Military World Games | ||||||||||||||||||
2017 | Lead | |||||||||||||||||
2017 | Bouldering | |||||||||||||||||
2017 | Speed |
Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Pilz started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.
In 2017, Pilz won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering.
In 2018, Pilz won the lead climbing event at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She won the bronze medal in the combined event at the same World Championships.
In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics,[1] where she finished 7th.[2]
In 2021, Pilz won the combined event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships.
In 2023, Pilz qualified to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing second in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[3] Pilz won the overall title in lead climbing in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup series.
In 2024, Pilz won the bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[4]
Rock climbing
She rarely climbs outdoors, but in January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes.[5]
Rankings
IFSC Climbing World Cup
Discipline[6] | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 33 | 19 | 13 | 3 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 10 | - | 10 | 1 |
Bouldering | – | – | – | – | 25 | 58 | 11 | 5 | 12 | 7 | 17 |
Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 57 | 63 | - | - | - | - |
Combined | – | – | – | – | 3 | 10 | 4 | 3 | - | - | 4 |
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Youth[7]
Discipline | 2010 Youth B | 2011 Youth B | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 16 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
Bouldering | – | – | – | – | – | 3 |
Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 21 |
Adult[7]
Discipline | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 1 | 6 | 6 |
Bouldering | - | 4 | 33 | 8 |
Speed | - | 59 | 43 | - |
Combined | - | 3 | 10 | 2 |
Climbing European Championships
Youth[7]
Discipline | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 |
Bouldering | – | 2 | 1 | 2 |
Adult[7]
Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|
Lead | 11 | 3 | 3 |
Bouldering | – | 5 | 12 |
Speed | – | 31 | 41 |
Sport climbing at the Winter Military World Games
Discipline | 2017 |
---|---|
Lead | 1 |
Bouldering | 1 |
Speed | 2 |
European Youth Cup
Discipline | 2010 Youth B | 2011 Youth B | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | – |
Bouldering | – | 3 | 5 | 12 | 1 | 2 |
Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup
Lead
Season[7] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
2015 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
2018 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2020 | 0 | |||
2021 | 0 | |||
2022 | 0 | |||
2023 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 2 | 12 | 7 | 21 |
Bouldering
Season[7] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Gallery
- Pilz receiving gold medal in lead climbing at the 2017 Winter Military World Games
- Pilz competing at the European Championships in Chamonix, 2013
- Pilz competing at the Winter Military World Games in Sochi, 2017
- Pilz competing at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich, 2017
References
- ^ "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?".
- ^ "Jessica PILZ Biography, Olympic Medals, Records and Age". International Olympic Committee. Archived from the original on 2022-11-10.
- ^ "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.
- ^ Aspland, Richard (2024-08-10). "World Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-08-10.
- ^ UK-Climbing, ed. (6 January 2016). "Two ~8c+'s by Jessy Pilz". Retrieved October 22, 2017.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Pilz's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
External links
- theCrag profile
- Profile on Adidas-Rockstars.com
- Jessica Pilz at Olympics.com
- Jessica Pilz at Olympedia
- Jessica Pilz at the World Games
- Jessica Pilz on Instagram